Thank You - Goes a Long Way!

A few days ago I was determined to write & send out an email blast to our wholesale customers.  I was struggling with what to say.  Sometimes we have trade shows coming up.  Or new designs to brag about.  What came to me was "Thank you" - a big "Thank you."  I decided to acknowledge all the people and groups that make Dunitz... Dunitz.  I thanked my customers. I thanked our artisans. I thanked the press, my mascots, Fair Trade Federation and trade show organizers. I thanked everyone!
Guess what?  This email blast was opened by more recipients than any other I've sent recently.  When looking at statistics, it appears between 10-20% more people read my "Thank you".  That was my boomerang Thank you.  I'm still smiling. - ND

Dimensional Weight the Newest Challenge

I've had a challenge with shipping lately.  Our UPS bill has been coming in every week with surcharges we're being assessed for "dimensional weight." No longer is a one pound box one pound. It's most likely 2 or 3 or 6.  You know those measurements on the bottom of boxes? According to UPS, they're WRONG!  They tell us that those are the interior dimensions & not what shipping costs are based on.  Starting this year, UPS is charging by size before weight.  Their representatives insist FEDEX has been doing this for the past twelve months. Since my business does not use FEDEX as a regular carrier, I wouldn't have known this.  You say the Post Office is cheaper?  It can be.  But definitely not always. Sometimes the difference is minimal.  Sometimes it is significant.  Very light boxes sent to a residence are almost always cheaper through the Post Office.  Very heavy "one rate" boxes are also a bargain through the Post Office.  Other sizes and weights often cost less through UPS or FEDEX.  Perhaps there is a special software that evaluates which is most economical given the size, weight, destination and location status (residential vs business).  It is definitely something I need to look into. But when you run a small business without a big shipping department, it is almost impossible to have the time to evaluate each parcel on its own merit.

One more thing I learned today....from my UPS representative.  Throw out the rules of math you learned as a kid.  In school, I learned you rounded down from .4 and up above .5 - so 12.4 was  rounded down to12.  And 12.5 was rounded up to 13.  UPS rounds everything UP.  So, 12.1 is 13. 12.4 is 13.  So - back to those boxes.  A box printed on the bottom 14x8x8.  You know how they aren't always glued perfectly.  The box I measured today was 14.1x8.2x8.5 - so for UPS - that is a 15x9x9 box.  Is there any leeway in their machinery calibration? I have no idea. But looking at UPS software - 14x8x8 will always ship at 6 pounds or more.  14x9x9 will always ship at 7 pounds or more. 15x9x9 will always ship at 8 pounds or more.
When you question shipping charges - do remember these tidbits we learned today. They might provide some answers if not solutions. -ND

Trade Show Challenges - Part#1

Scheduling our trade show attendance is always a challenge.  We like to be consistent.  We know especially with jewelry, store owners need to see and touch our offerings so they can make their choices.  Our clients must see us at the trade shows. We choose to do the same shows over and over again …when we can.

Unfortunately it is impossible for us to be in two places at the same time.  And often trade show producers schedule shows at the same time.  Date conflicts started happening with the New York Now (aka New York Gift Show) and the Las Vegas WWIN & Magic shows a few years back. Given the choice we opted for NY.  NY Gift has always been our strongest show. We lost our WWIN location.  During one of these seasons, we opted to add San Francisco Gift to our schedule. (It had been off our radar for a few years.)  Turns out when Magic/WWIN is not conflicting with NY Gift, it is conflicting with San Francisco. Once back at the SF show, we stayed. 

Regional shows are important to us. Dunitz consistently exhibits at Chicago Windy City Gift, (Windy City Gift which has now taken place three times. Dunitz has been there twice. Previously we were seen at the now defunct Merchandise Mart show.), San Francisco Gift, Los Angeles Gift and Boston Gift shows.  In fact, these shows are now all owned by the same trade show operator, Urban Expositions. When we are consistent, our steady customers see us time and time again and almost always in the same spot.  Autopilot!  Guess what? It isn’t.  Even though Urban Expositions owns all of these regional shows, they often have their shows conflict with one another.  Last season we had to opt for Chicago over Los Angeles because both shows were staged the same weekend.  It was a close call, but next season we’ll be in Chicago over San Francisco….and unfortunately NOT in the same spot by the bathrooms :(.  As an exhibitor – these choices are quite challenging.   The Chicago team was expecting us to sign summer contracts by February 10^th.  How could we do this when we hadn’t been able to evaluate the San Francisco show which only concluded two days ago?  Chicago management had indicated they would accommodate Dunitz by holding our space until the SF show concluded. Since we do so many Urban Exposition owned shows we believed they would give us the time to make the best decision for us.  When we notified them yesterday we decided to return to Chicago, we learned they gave our booth to another exhibitor.  Again – we won’t be by the bathrooms. We’re not sure where we’ll be as of this writing.

The point of this rant is to let you, our store buyers know we always do our best.  We try to be consistent so you can find us time and time again.  Unfortunately it is beyond our control to always be consistent.  Well – Lucky Los Angelinos.  It looks like you’ll see us this summer since – the LA Gift Show does not conflict with Chicago. - ND

Handmade Stuff Takes A Lot of Time - Seriously!

Every season I struggle with my new designs & pricing.  I struggle with what my artisans need to earn to be paid fairly for their time. I struggle with the prices I will charge so that Dunitz (that's me) can earn fair margins. And I struggle with perceived value of our merchandise.  These things are very often not in synch.
Our artisan made jewelry designs can take hours and hours to create.  So often our customers don't take this into consideration.  They think in terms of precious metals and gem stones. 
This season, we worked out a new technique combining macrame with seed beads.  We've never done this or seen it from other designers. Of course we see macrame work.  We have been creating wonderful designs with macrame for years.  But combining macrame with seed beads IS something new!  Beading needles don't fit on macrame thread.  Conventional needles cannot accommodate seed beads.  With a lot of effort on the part of our artisans we created a new look.  We call these new components our "Macrame Suns". This season you'll see them in different sizes.  And - you'll also see our "Half Sun".  For now, I wanted to share some information about just how long it takes to make - something that looks rather small.
Our "Macrame Sun" earrings are as cute as can be.  And - we will be showing them in twelve different colors.  Each sun takes 1-1/2 hours to make.  That means these earrings take one artisan three (3) hours.  This does not include the threads, Czech & Japanese seed beads and crystals. We use surgical steel ear wires.   What would you pay for something that is beautiful, takes three hours and is made from
the finest glass beads available today? -ND

Queen of Monochrome

Years and years ago, I designed many pieces in solid colors.  My colleagues told me it was boring.  Other (beaded) jewelry designers were creating highly contrasting color schemes.  Some I knew personally laughed at me and told me what I was doing seemed uninteresting.  Guess what? They weren't laughing when the saw the volumes of bracelets & necklaces I started selling.  Dunitz "solid" colored adornments matched every floral, plaid and multicolored striped dress, shirt & pantsuit.  Women only needed to love our designs and quality to know our pieces would coordinate with any of their outfits.
To this day, my colleagues call me the "Queen of Monochrome."  I do create schemes that include an array of colors. These always match "solid" colored clothing. And, every season, I hone in on important fashion trends and zoom in on very specific colors.  The clothing designers do the same. Here are a few I project for Spring 2015 with the help of some very influential people.

Coral orange was spotted everywhere for Spring 2015.  This great dress shown here comes from Carolina Herrera's line up.  Dunitz & Company will have the goods to match all of the clothing you'll find on store racks.

I love yellow. But, sometimes it is a tough color to wear.  My monochromatic pale yellow this season adds a touch of pinky-beige.  This "not in your face" yellow will work for most people.  And it will go with the array of yellow you'll find in all the clothing shops this Spring.  The outfit shown here was designed by Nanette Lapore.

Blue is ALWAYS popular. Yes, almost any shade of blue. You'll find blue will be a big part of the Dunitz lineup for Spring 2015.  We wanted to create a scheme that would match every floral, plaid and stripe out there.  Our monochromatic capri blue scheme should do just that.  Of course, here we're showing it with a solid colored dress from Marc - by, yes, Marc Jacobs.








My final point is - yes, these wonderful clothing designers also create gems (great dresses, that is) in solid colors.  & our multischemed jewels will be perfect for those.  But, trust me - there are TONS of floral, plaid and stripes coming to the clothing racks near you.  And we KNOW our monochromatic colored jewelry works every time! -ND

Judaica - An Ongoing Challenge

A handful of years ago, I decided to start a Judaica Collection.  I was certain I could do it.  What I learned very quickly is...it's NOT that easy.  Initially I designed some higher end and beautiful beaded pieces, with Star of David iconography in fashion colors.  I also designed a line of kippot in fashion colors.  I learned almost immediately that the synagogue gift shows absolutely did NOT want fashion colors.  Everything needed to be neutral.  Neutral blues. Neutral blacks & greys. Neutral cream and beige.  I also learned that pricing for the most part was key.  I was told over and over by volunteer buyers that they could not sell anything that was expensive.  It put the kabosh on most of my initial designs.  Since then, I've reworked my kippot collection - focusing on more conservative colors.  My little row of Stars of David bracelet seems to be the design with selling legs.



Fall 2014. Voila! I've been designing a wonderful collection for my specialty boutique and museum customers.  Dunitz has introduced loads of necklaces and bracelet featuring "world coins."  People are digging it. I intuitively knew my Judaica customers would love these pieces too....if only I could secure LOTS and lots of shekel coins.  Success.  It didn't happen immediately.  But, now I have a source in Israel shipping me lots of out-of-date Israeli coins.  I was amazed how many synagogue gift shops purchased these designs for Chanukah gift buying.  It's been one of the few times that although many of the buyers balked on price - they purchased just the same. Now - that's a huge compliment.  Are you ready?  We can send you pieces with "world coins" or "shekels"! -ND

Recycled Huipiles? Food for Thought. Helpful or Hurtful?

Only yesterday did I read this article published by Brenda Rosenbaum for Weave A Real Peace. If you are not following this group, you should. There website link is www.weavearealpeace.org -. What I learned is that more often than not, poor women sell their huipiles (traditional blouses) at market to make a small amount of money so they can feed and/or care for their families.  It usually is a desperate act. These beautiful weavings are then cut up to make trinkets that appeal to those of us "in the west."  Instead of paraphrasing the article, go ahead and read it.  It's short & sweet and points out some real issues facing people in need. (Brenda's fair trade business, Mayan Hands works with women weavers in Guatemala.) -ND

Recycled huipiles?

"I would rather burn my huipil than sell it like that… The warmth it would provide has more value than the few quetzales they would give me for it.” (Catarina B.)

There are many forces threatening the survival of Mayan back-strap loom weaving today. A particularly pernicious current practice is that of buying huipiles (Mayan women’s blouses) for pennies, and “cutting and pasting” them (disregarding their integrity¬) into handbags, purses, shoes, jackets, etc., to sell in the tourist and international markets.
For the past 3500 years, the world has admired the magnificent cloth Mayan women create on the humble back strap loom. Huipiles represent the pinnacle of technical complexity and symbolic density of back-strap loom weaving. Walter Morris’ studies of Highland Chiapas huipiles argue for the continuity of ancient symbols. Indeed, he says, there are hidden worlds portrayed in modern huipiles: when a woman dons her huipil, she positions herself in the center of the universe, i.e. the diamond pattern around the neckline, which symbolizes the universe. “Wearing a huipil,” says Irma Otzoy, a Mayan anthropologist, “we are saying to ourselves and others, I am Maya, we are Maya, and we will continue being Maya.”
The current popularity of products made with huipiles has given rise to a renewed and intense exploitation of Mayan women’s work. Mayan women are the poorest of the poor in Guatemalan society, with few opportunities for an education or earning a living. Weaving continues to be the only source of income available to most of them. If weavers were able to sell, at a fair price, the thousands of huipiles piled up in Guatemalan markets and made into products, we would see prosperity in their communities. Instead, we see deepening poverty and, often, despair: the voice from the larger society—echoing through the centuries—deeming their work and skill, and the culture that generates these, as worthless.
I worked with Linda Asturias and Lucia Jimenez, Guatemalan anthropologists,to interview women from different Mayan communities and learn more about this practice. Even though the huipiles of each community are not comparable regarding the complexity of their designs, their techniques, and the time required to weave one, we heard this story repeatedly: buyers (mostly women) from Chichicastenango, travel to the villages, walk from house to house, and pressure the women to sell their huipiles. They pay most often Q25 ($3) for a huipil in good condition; in some cases, they will pay as much as Q40 ($5) for an outstanding one. They also buy blouses made of commercial cloth with profuse hand embroidery on them, paying Q5 ($0.60) or even Q1 ($0.13) for these. “Normal” prices for used huipiles, in good condition, (that a Mayan woman might buy), would be between Q400 ($50) to Q1500 ($200). The time to weave ahuipil varies greatly, between several weeks and several months (or even a year), according again to its complexity and the hours a woman can devote to weaving daily.
Why would women sell their huipiles for such a miserable return? They sell because of a pressing need: a sick child in need of medicine, a school payment, or to put food on the table. Mayan women with other sources of income commented they would never sell their huipil for that price. Many who sell their huipiles will never weave or buy one again, buying instead a simple blouse.
What happens with the thousands of huipiles purchased in this way? Middlemen sell them to business owners who will sew them into products and sell them. One of our interviewees commented that they are often sold by middlemen, not by unit, but by weight.
To add insult to injury, to make them more attractive to buyers, these products are wrapped in a cloak of virtue, presented as “recycled” products. What an egregious distortion! A recycled product is one that has been salvaged from the trash. By contrast, the purchased huipiles are almost new or in good condition and women can wear them for many more years. A huipil can last up to 15 years if a woman has more than one; if she has only one, it lasts between 5 and 7 years. These are definitely not “recycled huipiles”, we should call them instead “embezzled huipiles.”